A10 starts, splutters then clears..... (Read 333 times)

[gainsb1]

Any ideas what this might be? Last couple of weeks the car has started on the button, as usual, but initially seems to be firing on three (engine/gearbox shakes) then after about 30 seconds the car picks up intermittently every couple of seconds until it fires on "all four" and no further problem.
Changed the distributor cap (no change). Pulling the leads off one-by-one indicates that all four seem to be working OK.
Dreading a sticking valve, but can they do this before completely giving out?
Maybe a lead breaking down?

Need to get it running okay as I have just finished re-trimming the interior (and a damned good job I've done on it!)

Leigh

[RatDat]

I've had this before and it was actually a plug. Find the cylinder not firing when it's cold and while it's running, try pulling the lead off the plug just far enough so the spark will still arc across to the plug tip... if the cylinder pics up then it could be the plug. This is what mine was doing. Presumably the spark was arcing down the outside of the plug under the lead insulator, however changing the lead didn't stop it only changing the plug did. New set of plugs is cheap enough anyway. If you suspec a lead try swapping a couple if they're long enough.

[Al Ramone]

i've had this and my fault was a blown headgasket......

what happens is water seaps into one cylinder when the car has been standing.
so when you first start it up it has to clear out the water before it fires up and can run properly.

of course, it could be anything. only by checking will you find out what it is.
garages will have a sniff tool which attaches to the radiator filler and senses carbon emissions f which would indicate a gasket fault.

hopefully it's just a plug or lead though

[gainsb1]

It's amazing, the help you can get by posting a simple question. Thanks, guys. I'll try the new plugs first as I've already done the leads swap. Hope it's not the head gasket but there is no indication of that in the oil filler cap. Also it only had a new head gasket a few thousand miles ago. Fingers crossed.

Leigh.

[Al Ramone]

Aug 25, 2012 10:15:10 GMT 1 gainsb1 said:

Hope it's not the head gasket but there is no indication of that in the oil filler cap.
Leigh.

just because the oil is not involved does not mean the head gasket is ok.
they can blow anywhere and the fault you discribe would mean water getting into the piston bore.
any garage will have the sniff tool.

of course it could be any number of things, it needs checking over.

[RatDat]

In my experience, they rarely get water in the oil from a head gasket failure.

[gainsb1]

Swapped the plug over from the dickey cylinder with one in a good cylinder and the fault followed the plug. Hopefully this is all that is wrong. Currently fitted are Bosch W56 Super 4 plugs but I tried, unsuccessfully, today (bank holiday) to get them or a compatible NGK. The manual shows NGK BP-6ES. Apparently the Super 4 plugs are no longer made, although with 4 electrodes they were supposed to be more efficient and longer lasting.

Leigh.

[Al Ramone]

well that sounds like very good news.

hope the new set of plugs sorts it

[gainsb1]

Aug 27, 2012 15:06:41 GMT 1 Al Ramone said:

well that sounds like very good news.

hope the new set of plugs sorts it

It didn't! A late update to my original post indicates that you were spot on Al. It is the head gasket gone between bore and waterway.

Good news is that it is relatively easy to fix and I don't need a new radiator (thought the water was leaking out, somewhere - not being used as fuel mix!).

Bad news is I still have a broken foot in plaster for several more weeks and the car just sits there looking forlorn. Also the aluminium head could need skimming if warped slightly - extra unwanted cost at Christmas

Leigh (Area rep)

[Al Ramone]

can't say i've ever done a L series headgasket so i've no idea how hard or easy the job is.
will you be doing it yourself or getting a garage to do it?

[30psi]

How was the fault identified exactly Leigh?

[gainsb1]

Nov 13, 2012 21:01:26 GMT 1 Al Ramone said:

can't say i've ever done a L series headgasket so i've no idea how hard or easy the job is.
will you be doing it yourself or getting a garage to do it?

It will be going to a local guy who has a business in Thurrock and, as I am immobile for the next few weeks, can fit it in between other jobs at a VERY favourable rate.
The thing to remember (from Will's Tech Tips) is to lock the tension on the cam chain with a wooden wedge - otherwise more expensive!!

[gainsb1]

Nov 13, 2012 21:15:00 GMT 1 30psi said:

How was the fault identified exactly Leigh?

Signs and symptoms.......... spluttering, as described, on start-up that clears fairly quickly... then

• Loss of water from radiator
  
• Oil not mixed with water (mayo)
  
• Al's experience
  
• mechanics experience
  
• Will's experience
  
• Relevant electrics and plugs changed with no effect.
  
• Constant flow of steam from exhaust
  

Leigh (Area rep)

[30psi]

Ok. Shall I come round and have a look? I have a compression tester for a start. I'd also like to take a sniff of the water with a block tester too... but don't have my own though...

I do have a video bore scope though, so would be interesting to watch the combustion chamber once its nice and hot...

For info, my old L18 in winter missed until 5 mins in to a drive. Was down to an old plug even though it started on the click of the starter. New plugs stopped that.

Not saying its not the headgasket, but always worth having a hands on opinion.

[Al Ramone]

compression tester prob won't show much up. if there is water (or oil for that matter) in the bore it would show a higher reading anyway as the fluid won't compress.

doing the sniff test is a very good idea.
they're only £30 for a block tester kit that'll do the test many times.

might be able to see if there is water getting into the cylinder with the bore scope, just check it after the car has been standing.

keep us updated