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Post by Talking Hoarse on Oct 10, 2012 6:56:10 GMT 1
Personally I'd now be inspecting the bearings. Do you drive the car hard? I agree. However the (main & big end) bearings are a little challenging to get at just to examine. And if I were to work on them then I would be fitting a new oil pump anyway, so this is a 1st step - hopefully the only step for a year or so. No - I dont really drive the car "hard", although it usually (more than) keeps up with other traffic. I suspect everyones idea of driving a car hard is different - I avoid thrashing it for more than a few moments and then only if warmed up, and I dont usually do more than about 70mph for long. (Last time it went over 5000rpm the rev counter needle was wiping the dust & cobwebs away as it hadnt been round there for so long....) |
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Post by Talking Hoarse on Nov 17, 2012 12:12:19 GMT 1
OK- its now over a month since fitting the oil pump (see the L series oil pump thread below).
Still happy - and although the oil lamp takes about 3 seconds to go out when the car has stood for 24 hours or more, all of the engine rattles are very, very much reduced when started up both cold & hot.
In fact my 2 year old Hyundai diesel rattles much more audibly for the 1st few seconds after cold start up.
So I reckon this high capacity (albeit Taiwanese) oil pump was a good call in my case. Phew.
Ed
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Post by Al Ramone on Nov 17, 2012 14:01:52 GMT 1
might have to get one myself.
and i've combined the two topics to keep this straight forward.
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Post by Talking Hoarse on Nov 17, 2012 14:25:35 GMT 1
might have to get one myself. and i've combined the two topics to keep this straight forward. I am in your debt again Al - thanks |
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Post by greenb310 on Nov 17, 2012 17:20:46 GMT 1
Hi,
Maybe the oil pressure sender is a bit fawlty. Had the same problems on my A14, changed it for a new one, problems gone.
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Post by Talking Hoarse on Nov 17, 2012 19:00:08 GMT 1
Hi, Maybe the oil pressure sender is a bit fawlty. Had the same problems on my A14, changed it for a new one, problems gone. Err - i cant even find my OP switch! (on L18S engine). Looked all over for it and not found yet - so secret. However in my (limited = Ford) experience duff OP switches often cause a flicker of the light, or no light at all - not like mine. |
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Post by Al Ramone on Nov 17, 2012 19:07:49 GMT 1
switch is on block, between oil filter and alternator.
edit. on the 4 cylinder engines it's to the rear of the oil filter.
they can fail. would be interesting to see how a mechanical gauge reacts compared to your light.
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Post by Talking Hoarse on Mar 2, 2013 8:58:24 GMT 1
OK- its now over a month since fitting the oil pump . Still happy - and although the oil lamp takes about 3 seconds to go out when the car has stood for 24 hours or more, all of the engine rattles are very, very much reduced when started up both cold & hot. Further update. Despite only doing 3-4000 miles per year, my car has had its oil & filter changed at least a couple of times a year for the past 2+ years (since I recommissioned it) , so - and in preparation for a house & lifestyle move ( we are on way South from Tyneside) which may mean a lack of Datsun attention for a few months - I changed the oil yet again a few weeks ago - changing from Castrol GTX 15/40 to Shell Helix 15/40 and from a genuine big blue Nissan filter back to the smaller Unipart filter. Oil pressure lamp now goes out within 2 seconds of startup and cold start is quieter again. So I am relieved that the old dear seems fit & well and doesnt need shells. Phew. I am intrigued as to root cause of my earlier rumbles - but not that intrigued of course to refit the original pump. I know that there is often a "newly oiled" effect stratight after an oil change but I am past that stage. I would have thought that a big OE filter would be better at retaining oil overnight etc than a smaller canister Unipart (the like I have used several times before), but maybe the mineral Shell oil is more appropriate than the part synthetic GTX. So in the end not only am I endorsing these HP oil pumps from Taiwan, but also Shell Helix oil and Unipart oil filters........ Ed |
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Post by Al Ramone on Mar 2, 2013 20:10:16 GMT 1
can you not refit the nissan filter or is it in the bin?
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Post by Talking Hoarse on Mar 4, 2013 8:04:35 GMT 1
can you not refit the nissan filter or is it in the bin? The olf filter went in the bin of course. I always swap the filter with the oil, just happens I had a couple of Unipart filters so I used 1 of them rather than go to Nissan dealer or to Will. Were you going to suggest that I re-use the old (big blue) Nissan filter Al? Ed |
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Post by Al Ramone on Mar 4, 2013 8:37:04 GMT 1
yep. i'm guessing it hadn't done that many miles and i'd be good to see a back to back test of just one item rather then oil and filter.
would only have needed to use it for a few cold start ups.
it's possible there are several differances in the filters, an anti drain back valve would certainly make a differance.
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