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Post by barnzey on Aug 20, 2012 23:09:41 GMT 1
any one know the best place for a k&n type air filter for the a14? Its a 57mm flange so found a few on ebay but is the flange deep enough for a jubilee clip? Mines off my old a12 and its mounted different on this intake manifold so best i could do was bodge one bolt to the air filter mount so now it vibrates when it revs higher
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Post by Al Ramone on Aug 20, 2012 23:19:38 GMT 1
that red 120Y B310 2 door had a HKS filter bolted on the stock carb.
anyone get a pic? or maybe PM sss310 and ask him?
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Post by barnzey on Aug 21, 2012 8:54:03 GMT 1
yeah it was that that got me thinking, i didnt see it but my dad told me about it after. I'll pm him
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Post by barnzey on Aug 21, 2012 21:26:49 GMT 1
ok since doing a bit of research looks like theres a tad more science to changing the air filter than i thought. I always assumed the air you sucked through the carb wanted to be nice an warm to make it easier to ignite, that being the reason why the breathers route to the air filter housing? So alot are saying these cone types loose power because its sucking in warm engine air. Im not too bothered about power difference aslong as it doesnt drop alot but any ideas on where to route the breathers with these universal air filters? Demon tweeks do 4 or 5 types that should do the job so just looking into which does the best job
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Post by Al Ramone on Aug 21, 2012 22:07:35 GMT 1
cold air is denser. which basicly means more air, which means you can burn more fuel, which means more power.
but....
that only works if you add extra fuel. and set it all up to suit.
also really cold air can make the carb freeze/ice up. this is not nice as the throttle can stick open. (as you've got a heated manifold you should be ok)
there is a reason why car manufactures fitted the different ducting and also why some manufactures fitted a summer and winter setting on the air filter box.
for what you've got, a simple air filter on top of the carb with no ducting should be fine.
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Post by barnzey on Aug 21, 2012 22:52:08 GMT 1
that makes sense, thanks for that al. Would the breathers from rocker cover and the block need routing back in to the carb somehow? Or shall i just reroute them somewhere else?
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datman
Senior Member
Posts: 799
Location: West Sussex/Surrey
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Post by datman on Aug 22, 2012 1:13:57 GMT 1
The pipe from rocker cover to air box is just an air inlet. The crank case fumes are sucked out by the PCV system (valve on inlet manifold) so the air has to come in somewhere, it is routed from the air box to A: filter the air and B: make it quieter.
you can fit a tiny filter to it instead.
PERSONALLY I hate all of those aftermarket type air filters, ESPECIALLY the oiled ones such as K&N. If you use your car in winter it won't like it. THe original air filter box flows fairly well. If you want to get more air in that, you could put a larger inlet tube to it or drill a load of holes in the side of the box but beware of carb icing in winter. That warm air intake option is there for a reason.
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Post by Al Ramone on Aug 22, 2012 20:22:25 GMT 1
I agree with Will.
Apart from his view on K&N filters, they are pretty much the best aftermarket filter availible.
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Post by barnzey on Aug 22, 2012 21:55:36 GMT 1
thanks, it all makes sense, its only the fact that mines only really being held on with the rod that im considering changing it. I dont have the heat tubing thing from the exhaust anymore so i wouldnt have thought a k&n or the like would make it more likely to freeze with it being close to the engine but could be wrong . Ive pmd sss310 and hes very kindly going to send me some pictures on how he went about it...
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