Under body / chassis rust proofing. (Read 164 times)

[kgc210]

What products do people prefer to use for Rust Proofing their cars?

I have used waxoil in the past and I am not a fan as I end up with more in my hair than on the car. Also everything seems to stick to it and I'm not really a fan of mud sticking to it, personally that defeats the object of what your trying to do.

I have read about Dinitrol and quite like the look of the product range and how it dries to a non sticky finish.

Is there any others to consider?

[Al Ramone]

I won't use underseal as i've found it is very messy to apply and gives un even coverage. also found it a pain as it never dries properly and just looks bodgy.

I now tend to use Tetrosyl chassis black, thined down with a little white sprit, sprayed on with a stonechip type gun.

Gives a tough but shinny/nice looking and dry finish.

Obviously it's not much use if your spraying it over mud/rust/papermache

For box sections/sills that sorta thing, i use bilt hamber's stuff. expensive, but has very good reviews. So wouldn't waste time/money on anything else.


some pics of the 120y estate i cleaned up.

it was solid, but covered in surface rust. i just wire brushed whilst using a open air line blower to shift it off.
then red oxide sprayed that, then a lot of chassis black.
i could have got the whole underside sand blasted, but that would prob have just made a lot of holes in the 38 year old japanese metal......










have to ask Datman how it's holding up? thou maybe worth asking in a few years time....

[30psi]

Al, that looks good and comprehensive. More so that what I've seen with POR15 possibly. I assume there's no difference if using a brush except no need to thin it down?

[Talking Hoarse]

I went through this last year - & posted on the old forum:
"I have been spraying very liberally. I used 5 litres of Bilt Hambers cavity wax in chassis rails, sills, doors, A and B posts etc.
So the next stuff I bought was Bodyline ML cavity wax (from Brown Brothers @ ½ the price - about £20 for 5 litres) and have since done behind the wheel arch liners, above the petrol tank, and inside /under the scuttle panel (between bonnet & windscreen).
I was using a DIY air compressor with wax injection wand /lance attachments.
Of course only time and winter weather will tell which is the better product, but early indicators are that the Bodyline stuff is easier to use & more "user friendly".
Comparisons:
Bilt Hamber - the car stinks terribly many weeks after application (so much my wife will not go in the car at the moment). It also dribbled for several days. Seemed best sprayed on when warmed. Dries (ish) to a pale brown wax.
Bodyline - smell is much less than BH (much much better). Dribbles only for less than a day, and dries to a darkish brown soft toffee consistency. Sprayed on easily without warming and seems to me to go further and thicker than BH's wax. It also seems to spray further - and when spraying I could readily see mist coming out of the other end of the box sections /chassis rail etc many feet away (which is reassuring)."

I did use Bilt Hambers UB (thick black wax) sprayed onto the sills, underbody, wheelarches etc. It all goes on really well and easily, and looks rather good. It did not stink anything like as badly as the BH cavity wax. HOWEVER - a trip into a muddy forest track months later has left many muddy stains stuck to the black finish.

A year on - it all looks well. I really cannot tell any difference between the performances of the 2 cavity waxes I used. So far I have only needed to locally touch up a little of the Dynax UB.

A word of warning .......talking rustproofing with a TR2 pal, who used to be a Ziebart franchisee (thats the horrid black stuff).... He tells of an occasion when a head office bod was Ziebarting an E-Type Jag in the 1970's. The chap poked the lance up to spray above the gearbox, unwittingly piercing the gearlever gaiter and covering the interior of the car in black gunge. Dunno the outcome!
Ed

[Al Ramone]

Aug 1, 2012 23:09:47 GMT 1 30psi said:

Al, that looks good and comprehensive. More so that what I've seen with POR15 possibly. I assume there's no difference if using a brush except no need to thin it down?

if using a brush you will get messy. also i found it needed leaving to dry and then giving another coat or it wouldn't give good coverage. also the finish is not so smooth as you'd expect.