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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 21, 2014 13:47:58 GMT 1
Are they the same as fitted to other models?
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by RatDat on Dec 21, 2014 14:13:32 GMT 1
Yes, only 510 SSS and very early 610 SSS are different. Virtually all the UK SSS had the same HJL38W carbs.
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 21, 2014 14:36:42 GMT 1
Yes, only 510 SSS and very early 610 SSS are different. Virtually all the UK SSS had the same HJL38W carbs.
Thanks! What about the Z models? Looking to get mine re-furbed or replaced.
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by RatDat on Dec 21, 2014 14:54:05 GMT 1
Z carbs are different entirely.
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 23, 2014 14:16:28 GMT 1
So, here's the score. I noticed a couple of months ago that the car would splutter a bit when you pulled away from idle. Giving the car a few revs more before dropping the clutch seemed to work but it will wear out the clutch a bit quicker. After some time of this annoyance I made the mixture a bit richer and then tuned down the idle.That seemed to work.
Moving on..... MOT time reveals that the rich mixture fails the emmissions so the garage alter it to run legal. This takes me back to the previous problem although they did then tweek the mixture up AFTER the MOT. However, it is still doing it and so I would value your input as to what to do.
I'm thinking of having the carbs sonically cleaned and rebuilt OR replacing them with 2nd-hand items from a good source. I do understand that I could be buying just as much trouble with 2nd-hand replacement units, and the clean/rebuild won't be cheap.
Waddya think?
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by Al Ramone on Dec 24, 2014 10:44:46 GMT 1
What's the mileage on the car? personally i'd steer clear of used ones and rebuild the ones you have.
Although I'd also make sure the car is set up correctly first. Including checking over all the ignition system.
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 24, 2014 20:09:42 GMT 1
What's the mileage on the car? personally i'd steer clear of used ones and rebuild the ones you have. Although I'd also make sure the car is set up correctly first. Including checking over all the ignition system. ....about 76K miles. I think you're right Al. Done the points and condensor to no avail. I'll get some new leads next. Best to start with the cheapest option and work up. The garage did say there was probably some "wear in the carbs" but there would be no sound evidence for that.
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by Al Ramone on Dec 24, 2014 20:20:57 GMT 1
I'd be checking and replacing any and all vacuum and breather hoses. Plus fitting new Nissan points and condensor, decent quality ignition leads and quality NGK spark plugs. And then set it all up properly, including checking and setting the needles and springs as well as cleaning up and setting the dashpots.
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bananahamuck
Full Member
Posts: 286
Location: Littlerock Washington USA
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Post by bananahamuck on Dec 26, 2014 3:56:51 GMT 1
You show only 79 in your list of cars,,(at least that might run those SUs) so my question is.. Your 79 came with points? Weird? Can you switch to electronic and still pass your inspections?? I held out till about a year ago with changing to electronic in my 71,, and boy it woke that old girl right up. I used the same (part number) Pertronix unit that we have had in brothers 70 510 since 2008 with no problems yet. Both cars run stock type coil and resistor that came with car.
Or switch to Datsun matchbox,, they are hyped pretty high but watch this video , to see not all just hype.
Sorry if this is thread jack,, it wasn't ment to be.
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 26, 2014 15:29:33 GMT 1
.. Your 79 came with points? Weird? Can you switch to electronic and still pass your inspections?? Yes. Electronic dizzy will cost around £100 (from Australia)and won't alter the yearly Test/inspection (MOT, as it is over here...)
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 26, 2014 20:32:35 GMT 1
.... so, has anyone got a recommended Carb specialist before I start trawling?
Leigh (Area rep)
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bananahamuck
Full Member
Posts: 286
Location: Littlerock Washington USA
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Post by bananahamuck on Dec 27, 2014 1:13:06 GMT 1
Are you sure the linkage is adjusted so both pistons are moving up at the exact same time when you give it the gas? My sons 38s ran funky when he mis-adjusted that (whilst fiddling around as teens do) once. And you could kinda overcome the lagging one by changing mixture, or seem to at least. I don't remember if we put it on our HC sniffer so i don't know if leaned or enriched mixture .
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Post by gainsb1 on Dec 27, 2014 10:25:49 GMT 1
I'll check that. Thanks.
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by gainsb1 on Feb 8, 2015 16:35:55 GMT 1
Well, in answer to my saying "Check the cheapest things first" it has all been resolved by fitting a new distributor cap. Closer inspection showed that two of the outer terminals were blackened. Now running like a dream (like Datsuns do). Ready for my trip in June to Jersey for a classic car rally.
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by gainsb1 on Aug 17, 2015 18:02:43 GMT 1
I spoke too soon, obviously.Car now running like a pig, as before. I invested in a mobile classic mechanic/tuner and after 3 hours we've come to the conclusion that I am now looking for twin SU carbs to replace the Hitachis (that don't have fuel alteration capability, so I'm told). Several on Ebay and some internet research indicates that a Datsun 1200 twin carb set-up is possible. Not knowing much about carbs, I'm looking for some advice. Has anyone done a similar swap from Hitachi to SU?
Leigh (Area rep)
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