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Post by gainsb1 on Jul 14, 2012 9:16:54 GMT 1
Looks like the leak from the top of the windscreen on my 160J sss hasn't stopped despite the liberal application of "Seek and Seal" (Comma) that I have used with great success over the years  .I know that we have had, nationally, lashings of rain and that some of you will say that you shouldn't take your Datsun out in the rain (Will  )
but you have to drive 'em to enjoy 'em and in the current climate you can't help but get it wet.So, to the point. I am looking to get one of our national windscreen companies to remove the 'screen (as it is bonded) and it is likely that the young fitter may not know how to remove the s/steel trim without damage (as indeed I don't  )[glow=red,2,300]As the roof lining is already out for renewal (subject to some sunshine allowing me to complete the job) I can see that there does not appear to be any tin-worm creeping in, so fingers crossed... [/glow] Any other advice will be gratefully received.
Leigh (Area rep East London, Essex and Hertfordshire)PS This is cool. Have a go at playing around with the fonts, colours etc and don't forget the spelcheker..
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Post by Damien4884 on Jul 14, 2012 10:27:12 GMT 1
I would avoid nation windscreen type people and get a local business ito do it. I use a local guy whenever i need anything doing now as he was a lot cheaper and with national places anyone could turn up  i got a quote of £240 all in from autoglass compared to £80 plus vat from him. Is the stainless trim the same as what i have top and bottom? just little plastic clips on pegs? If so i don't know how to remove it without breaking the clips either (although 2 of my clips and pins are still attached to the trim due to rust!) |
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Post by Al Ramone on Jul 14, 2012 16:00:58 GMT 1
in the proper Nissan workshop manuals, they have a section on how to fit the trim as well as how to apply the sealer. so buy one ;D i'll have a look see if i can scan one |
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Post by gainsb1 on Jul 15, 2012 9:24:56 GMT 1
in the proper Nissan workshop manuals, they have a section on how to fit the trim as well as how to apply the sealer. so buy one ;D i'll have a look see if i can scan one Scanning sounds so much better than buying  Thanks. Leigh (Area rep East London, Essex and Hertfordshire) |
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Post by Al Ramone on Jul 15, 2012 9:30:44 GMT 1
to be honest, they are well worth buying. there's a lot of very interesting infomation in them. well, if your as geeky as me it's interesting anyways... |
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Post by gainsb1 on Jul 20, 2012 22:16:59 GMT 1
Any luck finding time to scan, Al? Rain still dripping in....  Leigh |
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Post by Al Ramone on Jul 21, 2012 22:12:04 GMT 1
argh sorry. been so busy as i'm doing an engine and gearbox conversion on the range rover. have you got my number? call me tomorrow and remind me |
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Post by gainsb1 on Jul 22, 2012 9:19:37 GMT 1
argh sorry. been so busy as i'm doing an engine and gearbox conversion on the range rover. have you got my number? call me tomorrow and remind me No problem. I had a go yesterday and was quite surprised at how easy it was. The stainless steel trim around the A-pillars is held on with 3 screws hidden in the rubber door trim (on the opp side it is just held in place with the 2 screws that hold the aerial on). Give it a bit of a wiggle and off they come leaving just the top and bottom trim. ;D Bearing in mind what was previously said about breaking the plastic clips that hold some of the trim in place, I tried to gently prise them off. No luck. So I tried pulling them left to right and, Hey Presto! they slid off to reveal nice sound metal with just a covering of dust; not bad for 33 years.  I can now see all of the bonding and it looks like I can now squirt some sealant around it. Not sure if it should be silicon or acrylic. Any help on this before it rains again?  Leigh. |
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Post by Damien4884 on Jul 22, 2012 15:08:03 GMT 1
Don't use silicone as you'll never be able to paint over where it was at a later date. Sikaflex or tigerseal like used to bond bodykits on is the stuff I would use.
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Post by gainsb1 on Jul 24, 2012 19:15:49 GMT 1
Don't use silicone as you'll never be able to paint over where it was at a later date. Sikaflex or tigerseal like used to bond bodykits on is the stuff I would use.
Of course, it isn't raining now!
Leigh |
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Post by gainsb1 on Aug 3, 2012 20:52:32 GMT 1
Gave the windscreen a right good hosing to see if there were still any leaks; apparently not - hurrah! :)Took the opportunity to give the A-post channels a clean and then splodged on Tetraseal to keep any future rust at bay. It's really meant for under the car as it is like black treacle but less runny; but seeing as the A-post channels are covered up by the stainless steel trims, there isn't a problem. However, there was a problem! Getting the trim back on was a b--ch of a job  All done now. This just leaves the newly-covered interior head-lining to be put back in (another thread). Despite two local trimmers sucking their teeth and saying they couldn't do it, I have to say that it wasn't that difficult. Starting from the centre and working out bit by bit worked well... you just had to be quick as the high temperature spray glue left little time for adjustments with the new material. All the plastic trim that holds it in place has been similarly covered and I am just waiting for the correct shade of paint to spray up the two pieces of metal trim. Then in it goes, making the interior brighter (the grey headlining is now cream pin holed). Leigh |
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Post by gainsb1 on Aug 4, 2012 10:54:12 GMT 1
Dammit! Left the car outside last night. It chucked it down. Got into the car to find a small pool of water in the centre console. Start again........ This should be easier second time around... yeah, fat chance!! Leigh. |
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Post by Al Ramone on Aug 4, 2012 13:42:18 GMT 1
We need pics. and where's you members rides thread?
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paranoid
club Member
datsuns and old british cars wanted for breaking
Posts: 152
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Post by paranoid on Aug 4, 2012 21:33:00 GMT 1
why not find a local windscreen fitter to take it out and start again.windscreen sealer has improved recently.the old stuff is crap
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Thanks.
