jimco
forum Member
Posts: 15 
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Post by jimco on May 12, 2016 13:03:55 GMT 1
Car failed MOT only on lower ball joint rubbers perished.
Easily obtained 2 new ball joints, simple taper, nut and 3 bolts.
However book says the drive shaft must be removed first!
Can these not be changed without removing the drive shafts?
Does the spring need compressed/clamped for this job?
Anyone done this job? Must be quite a few?
Thanks, hoping someone can help, Jim
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Post by gainsb1 on May 18, 2016 19:55:29 GMT 1
Hi, jimco. Give Will (Datman) a call to see if he can help you. 01342-321000. Good luck.
Leigh (Area rep)
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Post by antdat on May 25, 2016 6:30:33 GMT 1
Only issue you may have is removing the ball join nut and may have to remove the hub nut and pull the drive shaft out of the hub (not remove it from the car). the 3 bolts for the ball joint to lower arm won't be an issue.
You won't need to touch the shock or spring.
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jimco
forum Member
Posts: 15
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Post by jimco on Jun 9, 2016 11:35:58 GMT 1
All done, fairly easy job, forget the workshop manual. Drive shaft does not need to be removed. Slacken off the ball joint nut: you cannot get a ring or socket on this nut, and an open ended spanner will probably slip/damage nut so I used an open ended METRINCH spanner which grips the nut hex walls, not the corners. Unscrew the nut just clear of the lock part of the nut or as much as possible without fouling the drive shaft boot rubber. Broke the taper with a forked splitter and a hammer. Remove the ball joint nut. Pull down and clear the ball joint from the tapered hole. The 3 bolts supplied in the kit (supposedly genuine Nissan)were no good,as fully threaded and one too long. They should have fitted shoulders to keep the ball joint in the exact required original position or the steering geometry will be way out. The original 3 bolts (triangular shape) are all welded together at the head end for exact positioning. I reused these original bolts but with new locknuts. Job done, less than 1 hour per side.
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