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Post by Al Ramone on Feb 26, 2013 21:24:41 GMT 1
why can't the front go lower? i like it, but i'd do whatever it takes to drop it more and dial in some camber too for good measure  blow torch to heat and bend the chassis if thats what it needs  |
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Post by tss240zg on Feb 26, 2013 21:29:31 GMT 1
Good to see someone else at it! Which kit is this, the Doyusha one? I'd guess so from the shallow interior. Yup... Doyusha - I think its the interior which really lets this one down not realistic enough for me |
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Post by tss240zg on Feb 26, 2013 21:33:38 GMT 1
why can't the front go lower? i like it, but i'd do whatever it takes to drop it more and dial in some camber too for good measure blow torch to heat and bend the chassis if thats what it needs Well its to do with where the chassis clips to the body - they clips are at the lowest point of the car at the moment i have tucked the chassis above the clips to lower it a little more. My only option it to add to little ridges higher up thus forcing the chassis up against the shell. |
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Post by spottedlaurel on Feb 27, 2013 20:22:51 GMT 1
I use a variety of methods to get my kits lower. The ones with metal rod axles are easy, just drill some holes a bit higher up the inner arches. Ont eh ones with more realistic struts I tend to do something like what would happen at 1:1, cut material off the top 'spring' and slot the holes to get the camber. The lower arms might then need to be bent up accordingly, or you can put a spacer in there.
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Post by tss240zg on Feb 27, 2013 21:31:54 GMT 1
ok cheers will have a look at that.
How would you go about painting the badges on the car without messing the other paint work... as they will be quite tricky to mask
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Post by spottedlaurel on Feb 28, 2013 22:29:34 GMT 1
ok cheers will have a look at that. How would you go about painting the badges on the car without messing the other paint work... as they will be quite tricky to mask I use a fine brush with just enough paint on. If you need to tidy it up you can carefully use a sharp knife to gently scrape it back a bit. I used to paint window trims too, but now I use Bare Metal Foil, basically thin, self-adhesive foil which you cut oversize, stick on then trim back - a bit time-consuming, but satisfying. Don't make a 1950s American car you first attempt at using it though! Lots of hints and tips on a forum like here: forum.spc.org.uk/phpBB3/index.php |
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Post by tss240zg on Feb 28, 2013 23:49:33 GMT 1
Ok cheers
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Post by tss240zg on Mar 1, 2013 23:46:41 GMT 1
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Post by reallyloud on Jul 16, 2014 23:12:38 GMT 1
I've got a reasonable collection of Datsuns and Nissan in toy car form. I've been photographing them and will add them on here. There are a reasonable selection of toy and model cars of Datsuns that have been produced over the years, with most model ranges catered for, particularly as coupes. However models of cars produced from the 80's onwards (FWD types) are somewhat lacking in availability, I've yet to come across a model of a N12 Cherry, B11 Sunny, T72 Bluebird or a K10 Micra yet.  This is a 1/43 scale Norev model of the X1 Cherry saloon, it was released sometime in 2008/2009.  1/43 Ebbro scale model of the X1 coupe, from 2004/2005. It was issued in 4 colours and is available in racing form too.  Diapet Yonezawa Nissan Cherry X1 Saloon - very much in the toy end of the scale, this clumsy 1/45 model dates from the early 70's and features 4 opening doors. it is a crude and inaccurate casting but does have some charm.  Tomica Nissan Cherry X1 saloon, roughly in the 1/58 (Matchbox/Hot Wheels) scale. This model was released in the early 70's and was also available in blue. This is very much manufactured as a toy.  Ichiko Nissan Datsun Cherry X1 coupe, roughly 1/16th scale in tinplate. Ichiko were well known for their quality tin-plate models, having produced examples of the B10 and 510, as well as well known European sports cars and saloons. There is also a racing version. |
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